Apple Season

Virginia has a long history of growing and cooking with apples, dating back at least to Thomas Jefferson.  At Monticello, Jefferson grew many varieties, including his favorites:  Hewes’ Crab and Taliaferro for cider production and Newtown Pippin and Esopus Spitzenburg for dessert fruits.

An hour North of Monticello, Graves Mountain Lodge holds an annual Apple Harvest Festival.  Recently, we loaded up the car and headed to the mountains for a day of food, fun and apple picking.  We came home with plenty of Virginia-grown apples to use in all kinds of apple recipes.

Northwest of Madison, Virginia, Graves Mountain Lodge has been growing apples since the 1960’s.  They offer “pick your own” in their orchards, as well as plenty of fresh-picked, locally-grown apples from their own and other local orchards.  Local food and craft vendors abound, and there’s plenty for the kids to do:  hayrides, a haybale maze, etc.  Nestled in the side of the mountain, the Lodge offers a buffet-style lunch.  On the day we visited, meatloaf was on the menu, along with three bean salad, mashed potatoes, lima beans and yeast rolls – all homemade and all delicious!

Here are some pics from our trip:

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Once we got home, I quickly realized I had a HUGE box of apples I needed to use up.  One of the first things I made was this English Apple Shortcake with Brown Sugar and Cream Cheese Crust.  I’d made it before and loved its hint of sweetness, especially when served with whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar.

It was super easy to make.  Just be sure to drop your peeled, diced apples into a cold water bath with some lemon juice so they won’t brown while you’re making the crust.

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The finished product was yummy, and totally worth the drive to Madison!

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Fall Food History Events in Virginia

“Listen!  The wind is rising, and the air is wild with leaves.

We have had our summer evenings, now for October eves!”

~Humbert Wolfe

Anyone who knows me knows that autumn is my favorite season.  My birthday and my favorite holiday – Halloween – are both in October, and I adore sweatshirt weather.  There are plenty of food events throughout the state throughout the fall.  My boys and I will be going apple picking this weekend, while the fall foliage of the Blue Ridge Mountains is at the peak of its color and the apple orchards have their fall festivals.

Here are some of Virginia’s upcoming food history events:

Oct. 11 – Archaeology Day at Historic Jamestowne – Featuring demonstrations of Algonquian cooking and foodways and archaeology-themed tours.  (Adult tickets $14, 15 and under free)

Oct. 11 – Colonial Hearth Cooking Demonstrations at Patrick Henry’s Scotchtown – Interpreters will prepare a fall feast using colonial cooking techniques and preparations. ($8/adult, under 6 free)

Oct. 13-18 – Awesome Heirloom Apples chef’s demonstration and tasting at Colonial Williamsburg – Learn to prepare creative dishes using locally-sourced apples with Executive Pastry Chef Rodney Diehl.  ($33.50/person)

Oct. 25 – Whiskey and Moonshine Tasting, History Museum of Western Virginia, Roanoke – Learn about the Appalachian region’s long history of whiskey and moonshine distilling, and taste some of the best local spirits.  ($10 in advance, $15 at the door)

Oct. 30-Nov. 2 – Fire, Flour & Fork – “A gathering for the food curious,” featuring speakers like Christina Tosi of famed New York dessert ship Momofuku Milk Bar, Jason Alley of Pasture restaurant, Tuffy Stone of Q Barbecue and Kendra Bailey Morris, author of “The Southern Slow Cooker.”  Themed receptions, lunches and dinners will showcase the talents of chefs from Richmond and beyond.  (Cost varies by event, one-day and multi-day tickets available).

Nov. 2 – Virginia Thanksgiving Festival at Berkeley Plantation – Celebrate the first Thanksgiving in the New World at historic Berkeley with a living history program, tribal dancers, a traditional Virginia Thanksgiving dinner and a re-enactment of the arrival of Captain Woodlief and his men.  ($5 parking fee per vehicle, additional fee to tour the house).

Saunders Brothers Orchard and Farm Market, Piney River:  Nov. 1 – Fall Vegetable Sampling, Nov. 8 – Apple Butter Demonstrations, Nov. 15 – Apple Cider Making Demonstrations, Nov. 22 – Apple Dessert Sampling.

Nov. 15 – Open Hearth Cooking Class at Brentsville – Join an experienced cooking historian and learn the techniques involved in recreating period recipes in an open hearth kitchen.  ($30/person).

Gadsby’s Tavern, Alexandria:  Nov. 22 – Mr. Jefferson’s Ball, a period-inspired banquet with retired President Jefferson including dancing.  ($120 for banquet and ball, $45 for ball only).  Nov. 23 – Jefferson Salon, an afternoon of conversation and Madeira with Mr. Jefferson while enjoying period foods.  ($45/person).

Nov. 27-29 – Foods and Feasts of Colonial Virginia – Discover the foodways of colonial Virginia at Jamestown Settlement and the Yorktown Victory Center.  Open-hearth cooking of puddings, pies and pottage will follow recipes of Elinore Fettiplace in 1604 and Robert May in 1660.  In Yorktown, soldiers will show how they cooked during the Revolutionary War, while the the 1780’s farm will demonstrate open-hearth cooking of stews, pies and breads, as well as salting and curing a whole hog.  ($20.50/adult, $10.25/child age 6-12, under 6 free)

Beast Feast 2014

Never in my life have I eaten duck and goat in the same day… until yesterday.

Beast Feast 2014 was held on the lawn of Patrick Henry’s Scotchtown and featured local chefs and butchers slaving over open fires since the wee hours of the morning to cook whole goats, pigs, ducks, chickens and sides of beef.  They fixed some delicious side dishes too.  There was also lots of local beer, wine and cider to sample.  Oh and a country/bluegrass band.  And a chance to tour Scotchtown.  And if you paid a bit more for a VIP wristband, plenty of cocktails mixed and served by local bartenders and Rappahannock oysters to enjoy.

The slow-cooked meats were all delicious.  Long, slow cooking over open fires is a technique that goes way back, probably into prehistory, and there’s something primal (and yummy) about seeing and smelling the different animals being cooked.  The outside skin crisps up or chars, and the meat inside is left to roast in its own fat.  The duck, especially, was amazingly juicy.  The sides were veggie-heavy and plentiful.  The ambience – hay bales for seating and constant cornhole games – was laid back but what I like to call “country elegant” (think Garden and Gun magazine).  Lots of girls in dresses and cowboy boots.

Here are some pics.  Enjoy!

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Cooking

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Serving – mmm… goat!

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Goat, beef, farro salad, sweet potatoes

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Pork two ways, beans, Caprese-type salad

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Duck breast, beet salad, sweet potatoes, gravy

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Local wines and ciders

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Visited the kitchen and found out that Scotchtown offers hearth cooking classes for $25 a person.  I totally want to do this for my birthday at the end of October.  Who’s with me?

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Everyone could use a bit more meat juice.

RVA Restaurant Review – Graffiato

Earlier this week, I had the opportunity to eat at new Richmond restaurant Graffiato, from acclaimed Top Chef All-Stars Runner-Up Mike Isabella.  After the success of Graffiato DC and on the heels of a three-year stint at Jose Andres’ Zaytinya and Top Chef fame, Isabella opened Graffiato Richmond on Sept. 10, and the restaurant has served a packed house nearly every night since.  Located in the space formerly occupied by Popkin Tavern on Broad Street in downtown, the space is modern industrial with an open, airy feel.

Our reservation was for 7:30, and it took the hostesses a few minutes to get our table ready, but they were super nice and apologetic about the wait.  No worries – rumor had it that even people with a reservation had had to wait upwards of 45 minutes during opening week, so our ten minute or so wait was no big deal.

The beverage list was full of innovative cocktails, like a jazzed-up Pisco Sour and an “RVA Gin and Tonic” made with local gin.  Interesting wine choices make an appearance on the wine list, which is heavy on Greek and Italian wines (to go with the pizza and Mediterranean-influenced fare).  Virginia vintages are also well-represented.  The beer selections are a local beer acolyte’s dream:  Hardywood, Center of the Universe, Strangeways, Lickinghole Creek, Ardent Craft and Devil’s Backbone are all offered, plus more from Virginia, DC and Denver.  I had the “Put Me in Your Mix”:  bourbon, amaro, orange, honey and hefeweizen.  It was served with a long, thin shard of ice and a lemon slice, and was the perfect start to my Graffiato adventure.

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Following the trend in fine dining restaurants, portions are small plates and intended for sharing.  Our group was large enough that each of us ordered a few things and we all got to try different dishes throughout our meal.  For starters, we had the broccolini with red pepper relish, walnuts and feta and the roasted cauliflower with pecorino, mint and red onion.  Both were fresh and flavorful, with an innovative focus on vegetables rather than the bread or fried appetizers typical of most Italian menus.

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We also tried the Cheese & Cure tray, which is served on a slab of slate with your choice of three or five cheeses and meats.  Our group had the Bijou, a goat cheese from Vermont, the Bianco Sardo, a sheep’s milk cheese from Italy and the Italian Coppa, tender cured pork shoulder sliced thin.  Smears of spicy mustard and a sweet apricot glaze rounded out the plate.

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The menu boasted a bunch of gourmet wood-fired pizzas, and we tried the Greco Roman:  black figs, goat cheese and tasso; the Jersey Shore:  fried calamari, tomato, provolone and cherry pepper aioli; and the White House:  mozzarella, taleggio, ricotta, prosciutto and black pepper honey.  All three were phenomenal – I can’t even pick a favorite.  The flavor combinations were creative, yet familiar.  The crusts were baked perfectly.  My only – minor – gripe was that the prosciutto on the White House pizza wasn’t quite as crispy-looking (or tasting) or as caramelized as the picture on the website.  But it still tasted awesome.

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There was a small mixup with our order of the hand cut spaghetti (with olive oil-poached cherry tomatoes and Thai basil), which resulted in it coming out last, but it was a delicious ending to our meal.  The Thai basil is something I never would have thought to put with an Italian pasta dish, but it worked perfectly.  These kinds of innovative tweaks to Mediterranean comfort food are the hallmark of Graffiato’s.  Mike Isabella’s creative and well-executed menu puts the new Richmond location at the forefront of the city’s dining scene.

The verdict – 8.5 of 10 stars

Come on out to Beast Feast 2014

So in case you haven’t heard, on Sunday, September 28, some of Richmond’s best chefs and bartenders will be assembling at Historic Scotchtown in Hanover County to cook local meats and veggies over an open fire, and to share drinks, local wines and beers with what I’m sure will be an appreciative crowd.  At Beast Feast 2014, Belmont Butchery celebrates its eighth year (and is selling tickets for the event at the shop), and chefs from Rogue Gentleman, Aziza on Main, The Magpie, Julep’s, The Whole Ox Butchery of The Plains and even the Governor’s Mansion and the Federal Reserve Bank will be on hand to cook up a one-of-a-kind meal.  Prepare yourself for whole goats, pigs and possibly more cooked to perfection in Patrick Henry’s backyards, with proceeds from the event going to support upkeep and educational programs at Scotchtown.

If you haven’t gotten your tickets yet, you might want to do so sooner rather than later.  Get them here.  At $50 for general admission and $80 for VIP early access, they just may sell out.  If you’re interested in sponsorship opportunities, visit http://preservationvirginia.org/docs/sponsorship.pdf.  Those interested in volunteering can email london.c.ray@gmail.com for more information.

I, for one, can’t wait to see what the chefs and bartenders have in store!

Project “Family Food History Thanksgiving”

Anyone who knows me knows that I’m a ~wee~ bit obsessed with genealogy and researching my family history.  With some of the discoveries I’ve made over the past few years, I’ve become more and more interested in learning about the food cultures of the places my ancestors came from.  To that end, I’ve decided to focus my research and cooking efforts on my family’s Thanksgiving gathering to highlight some of these foods.  

From what I’ve been able to uncover, my mom’s family (the side we see in a big gathering on Thanksgiving Day every year), is mostly English (both Saxon and Norman – yes, I’ve been able to go back that far), German and Scottish, with some Welsh, Dutch and French.  So my focus will be on English, German and Scottish food history for Thanksgiving.

Our German ancestors come from Berlin, Rheinland and Hessen, Germany, so I’ve delved into some of the dishes from those regions:

From Berlin – Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup), Hoppelpoppel (a mix of leftover meat, scrambled eggs, onions and potatoes), Eisbein (pork knuckle), Kasseler Rippchen (smoked, brined pork chops), Konigsberger Klopse (dumplings of beef and capers), Schnitzel Hostein (schnitzel topped with fried egg, onions and capers – meat can be veal, pork, turkey or chicken), Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes), Berliner Pfannkuchen (jam or cream donut), Armer Ritter (German version of French toast), Rote Grutze (fresh red fruits with grits and fruit juice), Leberwurst (liverwurst), Bulette (flat pork meatball) and Berliner Weisse (beer). 

From Rheinland – Rheinischer Sauerbraten (sausage), Reibekuchen (potato pancakes), Himmel und Erde (potatoes, applesauce and bacon, accompanies blutwurst/blood sausage), Sauerkraut, Grunkohl (kale), Spekulatius (spice cookie), Zweibelkuchen (savory sheet cake topped with onions, cream or sour cream, eggs and bacon), Kreppel (donuts similar to the Berliner above), Schwarzbrot (dark bread), Ahr, Mittelrhein and Mosel wines and Rheinland beer.

From Hessen – Kassler Rippchen, Zweibelkuchen, Grune Sose (cold herb sauce served with boiled or baked potatoes and hard-boiled eggs), Reibelkuchen with applesauce, Potatoes, Asparagus, Sauerkraut, Frankfurter Kranz (cake filled with buttercream and marmalade, frosted with buttercream and decorated with pralines or almonds and candied cherries), Zwetschgenkuchen (crumb cake with plums and apples), Kreppel, Bethmannchen (small round cookies made of marzipan and egg whites and decorated with almond halves), Wasserweck (bread roll made of wheat flour), Blutwurst (blood sausage), Frankfurter Wurstchen (long, thin, lightly-smoked pork sausage), Handkase (sour curd cheese), Handkase mit Musik (marinated Handkase), Kochkase (sour curd cheese), Apple wine, Riesling wine

For my purposes of serving a crowd at a Thanksgiving day feast, I’m going to focus on recipes that won’t be too challenging to make and items that won’t gross out my family (I’m looking at you, Blutwurst!).  From my German ancestors’ foods, I’ll be making Berliner Pfannkuchen, Grunkohl with German sausage, Grune Sose with boiled potatoes, Spekulatius cookies and Wasserweck rolls, and I’ll be bringing along some Berliner Weisse (if I can find it) and Riesling wine.

Stay tuned for more on the foods I’ll be researching for my family’s English, Scottish, Welsh, Dutch and French lines.

 

Looking Forward to Fire, Flour and Fork

When I first heard about Fire, Flour and Fork, I thought it sounded like a great way to celebrate Richmond’s diverse food scene from a food history perspective.  Planned by Real Richmond Food Tours, the weekend-long event spans tastings, dinners and educational sessions.  Now that the schedule of events has been released, I can’t wait to get my tickets!

For the Saturday sessions, my dream schedule would be:

10 AM – At the Counters | Nicole A. Taylor, Dr. Raymond Hylton and Elizabeth Thalhimer Smartt | 10 a.m.
History books tell the story of segregation. Better still, “If We So Choose” is a documentary short film, produced by Athens, Georgia native Nicole Taylor, which introduces audiences to the people in Athens who not only lived through Jim Crow separatism but fought against it and won. Through the lens of a little-known protest demonstration at the lingo laden fast-food restaurant, The Varsity, new light is shed on unsung, young African American heroes. Turning the lens on Richmond, Dr. Raymond Hylton, chair of the department of  History at Virginia Union University and author Elizabeth Thalhimer Smartt will share the story of the Richmond 34 and their sit-in at the Thalhimer’s lunch counter on Feb. 22, 1960. We’ll see the new trailer of The Richmond 34 by Bundy Films as well.

In light of the events in Ferguson, MO, it’s more important than ever for Americans to come together to discuss our shared history and the importance of the civil disobedience of the 1960’s to the Civil Rights movement.  When I visited Memphis last summer to study the history of barbecue, I learned much about how race has played into food history.  My mother, a lifelong Richmonder, has told me of the Thalhimer’s sit-in and other actions in the 60’s, and I’d love to check out the film and get a new perspective on Richmond’s role in the larger movement.

11:15 AM – “Queen Molly” and the Enslaved Women with whom she Worked | Leni Sorensen | Culinary Historian
Known as “Queen Molly” the woman who set the finest table in early 19th-century Richmond, Mary Randolph and the unnamed enslaved cooks in her kitchens produced food that set the standard for excellence in Southern cookery. Historian Leni Sorensen is cooking her way through the recipes in Randolph’s book, The Virginia House-Wife, first published in 1824. The book is considered to be the nation’s first truly regional American cookbook and the most influential of its time. “If I’m talking about food, I’m also talking about history,” Sorensen says.

I’ll admit, I’ve kinda got a thing for Mary Randolph.  I was born and raised in Virginia and have traced my Virginia ancestors back to the 1600’s, so I’m partial to learning about colonial cooking methods and recipes.  In my study of “The Virginia House-Wife,” I’ve come across Leni Sorensen’s work, and I’m excited to learn more about Mary and the enslaved women of her kitchen.  I’ve tried a few of her recipes (including her Tavern Biscuits, which are pretty much my favorite cookie ever), and want to try more!

2 PM – Apple Stack Cake | Travis Milton | Comfort
Travis Milton, chef de cuisine at Comfort, left his beloved Appalachia to cook and write, emerging as an authority on Appalachian food ways. Heirloom apples are just one of the treasures of Appalachia and Travis knows which varieties work best for making his trademark vinegars, applesauce, apple butter and of course, his version of his great-grandmother’s Apple Stack Cake. Only a few of the 1,600 known varieties of apples that once grew in the Appalachians and Southeastern U.S. have been conserved. Once you learn the secrets of Apple Stack Cake, you’ll want to plant your own heirloom apple tree. Demo

Come on, what Richmond foodie worth their salt (see what I did there?) wouldn’t want to attend a session with Comfort’s chef de cuisine?  Besides, Virginia has a long history of apple growing and processing, dating back to Jefferson’s Monticello, if not further.  That Apple Stack Cake sounds delicious!

3:30 PM – On a Roll | Drew Thomasson | The Rogue Gentlemen
There’s a reason Drew Thomasson, baker at The Rogue Gentlemen in Jackson Ward, and formerly pastry chef at D’lish, has a whisk, spatula and rolling pin tattoo on his arm–those tools are extensions of himself as he whips up the Parkerhouse Rolls, breads and croissants that have given him a following around town. This demo will whip you into baking shape just in time for the holidays. Demo

It’s not just the baking-themed tattoo that draws me to this session.  My first “real” job was at a local gourmet bakery, and baking is one of my passions.  I always love to pick up new tips and tricks, but have had trouble with breads and yeast-based baked goods (cookies, cakes and brownies are my specialty).  I’ve got a crowd to bake for at Thanksgiving, so hopefully I can pick up some good recipes and techniques.

You can purchase your tickets here – https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fire-flour-and-fork-registration-12176238457?ref=ebtn

The event runs from Thursday, Oct. 30 with a reception at the “rarely-open” Eclectic Electric Appliance Museum to benefit Lewis Ginter Community Kitchen Garden, and concludes Sunday, Nov. 2 with “Queen” Molly Randolph’s Monumental Moveable Feast and tours of Monumental Church, and a tour of food-related art at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.